Original beta

Oct 28^th

Met this nice local French woman with whom I climbed a few times. Olga bonded with her two year old son and played around with his grandfather. A typical French climbing family. Got some nice beta and the few times I tried my own way, the grandfather just smiled and said in French something like: ‘No no, it is easier the other way, trust me.’ Just another one of those bleausards who have climbed in Font for ages. What can you say? They know.

I also got some inside info of some original climbs. For example: Biceps Mou – the big sloper out to the left? A heelhook with your right? “No no, that’s not how it was climbed originally…” I didn’t dare to do it in any other fashion than the original… And Carnage – starting with your right hand far out in la Berezina? Big no no…

You’d better know the original beta if you want your ascents to be counted for by the locals.