Climber
Nov 3rd
The first day we just walked around looking at some problems. The crimps felt so nasty. Is it really possible to pull on this?? The first climbing day though, with chalk on my hands and a nice breeze, I felt: -Oh yeah, it is “pullable”. So I tried Le Pilier, 8a, inspired by some guys (size smaller) and pulled those crimps. Got surprised when I passed all the cruxes and… then fell on the top move! But at least I know now. I can do it.
Nov 2nd
Arrived to Ticino valley, Switzerland, today. Renting a small apartment/ room with a beautiful view. Look forward to some great climbing in Chironico and Brione.
Oct 31st
So, I lost the star battle. Stefan ticked some serious stars the last few days. One of the problems, Hypothese, is described like this in the 7+8 guide book:
‘The problem is one of the perfect gems in Fontainebleau that illustrates the beauty of bouldering.//E. It shows the essence of bouldering in way that is rarely seen in the centre of Fontainebleau bouldering these days.’
Sweet.
Oct 28th
Met this nice local French woman with whom I climbed a few times. Olga bonded with her two year old son and played around with his grandfather. A typical French climbing family. Got some nice beta and the few times I tried my own way, the grandfather just smiled and said in French something like: ‘No no, it is easier the other way, trust me.’ Just another one of those bleausards who have climbed in Font for ages. What can you say? They know.
I also got some inside info of some original climbs. For example: Biceps Mou – the big sloper out to the left? A heelhook with your right? “No no, that’s not how it was climbed originally…” I didn’t dare to do it in any other fashion than the original… And Carnage – starting with your right hand far out in la Berezina? Big no no…
You’d better know the original beta if you want your ascents to be counted for by the locals. 
Oct 26th
Stefan and I have this little battle – who can climb the most gold star problems? I have to admit I’m a little behind so far, but there are a few days left and I have my mental tick list. Last night I couldn’t really sleep well because I was thinking too much of all the problems I want to do. Going through the moves in my head over and over… I guess all of you climbers that read this know what I mean, the rest of you civilians may just think I’m crazy. I know.
Today is rest day so I’ll try to upload my last few days posts. Angelica and Christoph are in the woods for a few days, so hopefully we’ll catch up with them later. Four more days here, and then we’re off to Ticino, Switzerland.
Oct 20th
Sometimes I wonder if I have a little ghost in my head. I was working this problem in Bas Cuvier and managed to do all the moves, but then fell on the top. Next try I got really nervous and jumpy. Probably because I knew I could do it and felt the pressure to do so. And the result? I fell off again. Sometimes I wonder if I don’t want to get up? I decided to leave the problem for a while. Met up with some friends at La Berezina (7c) which felt better than I thought it would.
Later my friends suggested to go back to the first problem. By this time there was a bunch of people there and I decided to make another try. And I did it! Was it because of the presence of the other people? I don’t know. But the holey ghost was gone, and Holey Moley (7a) was done.
Oct 17th
Did I say I love Font? Because of the frustration, the slopers…? I take it back. Today I heard myself saying really bad things about the same holds – or should I say “non existing holds”… Arrrgghhhhh!
So, here we are again. Renting a really cute little house in Bourron Marlotte. Olga got really excited to see all tomatoes growing in the garden reminding her of grandma.The owners living right next to us provides us with delicious fresh tomatoes and walnuts.
The past week has been mainly sunny and rather cool = perfect conditions. I’ve been back on some problems that I’ve tried before just to check my shape. Carnage (7b+) went really easy in just a few tries. Felt good and solid. But then on to the Font slopers… El Poussif, Iceberg, say no more - they all spat me off. A little bit of frustration, but then again - that’s how Font is. I love it.
Decided to change my whole website to English, so my international friends can follow aswell. I hope dear Swedish friends that you don’t mind.
Work in progress.
/a
So, I just had to go back to BlocX the next day. All by my self - carrying a mundo, MadRock triple pad, Franklin Satelite, a brush, my climbing backpack all at once… You can be sure of that I was already warmed up by the time I got there!
Doesn’t look very dark on the video, but it was just before it got too dark…
Compton Crips_BlocX from Anja Hodann on Vimeo.
